Just don't offer the papaya!


I re-tell this information in an effort for anyone who is not currently in Colombia to understand why it is important that people come here.

Yesterday I took a wrong turn when going out to "explore" in Medellin and ended up...(not in a dangerous place, sorry!) But I did end up on a super busy, smelly auto parkway where there seemed to be no way for me to turn go back the way I came not on the dirty, hot street. I hated it. I kept pretending that there was something to learn and really all I learned was that my navigation was off and the "Dollar City" store I ducked into for some shade is not a dollar store. It costs at least $1.75 per item.

I followed this experience several hours later going out for an evening walk with some hostel people, only to learn/see that perhaps just now, or always, Medellin's popular areas are full of wobbly, shouting Europeans. Bully for them - they seem to be having a great time. But really? This is the city I heard so many good things about?

And so when I approached my walking tour this morning I was apprehensive that anything would change my perception that this smoggy valley is any kind of treasure. I'm so glad I can be wrong sometimes. Not often, but sometimes. And for you, I present a synthesis of the learning I did today that helped me understand better what this place is.

  • Frequently, paisas will smile and say hi to you on the street. Visitors are welcome.
  • Medellin is not a pretty city. But it is terribly dynamic.  
  • Medellin has been given a trophy shelf full of awards in the past 10 years for its innovation and modernization. The pride of this development is the Metro. The Metro is super clean, super efficient (except for the process to buy tickets), and apparently the social rule is: don't mess with the Metro. 
  • Paisas don't particularly like to remember or talk about the notorious history of this city. While some profit greatly from the rise of Narcotourism, many think this glorifies a history that really should be dedicated to remembering those who suffered.
  • Generally, paisas don't like to dwell on suffering. 
  • There is a reasonable and understandable level of petty street crime no different from home. The saying is (roughly translated): Don't offer the papaya. If you offer the papaya, someone has to take it. 
Second impressions can be helpful, often. Hearing about this city from someone who grew up here, who is so proud that people want to come here, and is realistic about the changes that still need to happen - this was important for me to know, so you can know. 

Also, probably stop thinking about Narcos. The few Colombians who watch it think it's crap.

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